Wave Action
Published on Nov 20, 2015
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PRESENTATION OUTLINE
How do waves form and change?
Most waves form when winds blowing across the waters surface transmit their energy to the water.
Photo by kevin dooley
How do waves affect the shore? Near shore, wave height increases and wavelength decreases.
Photo by _Hadock_
As waves slow down they deposit sand they are carrying on the shallow underwater slope forming a long ridge called a sandbar.
Photo by bagting
Wave
The movement of energy through a body of water.
Photo by ecstaticist
Wavelengths
The distance between two corresponding parts of a wave, like the distance between crests.
Photo by ARM Climate Research Facility
Frequency
The number of complete waves that pass a given point in a certain amount of time.
Photo by 5Volt
Rip current
A strong narrow current that that flows briefly from the shore back toward the ocean through a narrow opening.
Photo by ecstaticist
Groin
A wall made of rocks or concrete that is built outward from a beach to reduce erosion.
Photo by andylangager
Longshore drift
The movement of water and sediment down a beach caused by waves coming into shore at an angle.
Photo by WalkingGeek
Tsunami
A giant wave usually caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor.
Photo by tj.blackwell
Waves shape a beach by eroding the shore in some places and building it up in others.
Photo by stuff_and_nonsense
