FOSTERING KITTENS

KITTENS 101

FAST FACTS

• Kittens are born blind, deaf, unable to regulate their own body temperature, and unable to eliminate waste on their own
• Kitten birth weights range from 3-5oz
• Bottle feeding kittens need fed flat on their bellies or vertically (never belly up) to avoid aspiration

WEEK 1

• It is very important that kittens spend their first 24hrs with their mother in order to receive colostrum needed to provide them with immunity from diseases
• Kittens this small need kept at about 95 degrees Fahrenheit and fed every 1-2hrs. NEVER FEED A COLD KITTEN.
• Young kittens need stimulation in order to eliminate waste. Generally mom takes care of this however if you are bottle feeding rub a warm, damp cloth gently on the kittens genitals to stimulate elimination.
• In the first 2-5 days the umbilical cord will fall off and kittens are already able to purr!
• By the end of the first week the kittens should have doubled in size and their eyes will begin to open!

WEEK 2

• The kittens eyes are completely open.
• Their ears are starting to uncurl.
• The kittens are now able to knead and hiss.
• The kittens continue to grow rapidly and still need kept warm and stimulated.
• At 2 weeks kittens need fed every 2-3hrs.

WEEK 3

• The kittens will begin cutting their first teeth and may even attempt nibbling some solid food. They now only need to be fed every 3-4hrs.
• Kittens are beginning to be able to eliminate waste on their own and litter training can begin! Sometimes kittens this age will try to eat the litter. Pine or newspaper pellets can be helpful to deter that behavior during this stage.
• Kittens are beginning to regulate their own body temperature but keep the heating pad around for 1 more week.
• 3-7 weeks is the most vital socialization period for a cat so start introducing them to everything and anything now!

WEEK 4

• Kittens should now weigh 1lb.
• Kittens this age have a full set of teeth, ears are perked, eyes are open but still blue. They look like little cats now.
• Kittens should be playing, running, litter trained, and eating solid food supplemented with nursing. Bottle feeders can now be weaned.
• The kittens are old enough to be dewormed if they have not been already.

WEEK 5 AND BEYOND

• By 5wks your kittens should be pretty well weaned.
• At 6-7wks the kittens FVRCP (distemper) vaccination series can begin.
• By 8wks kittens should weigh 2lbs and be showing their adult eye color.
• By 12wks kittens should weigh 3lbs and are old enough to be spayed/neutered and receive their rabies vaccines.
• By 16wks kittens are already old enough to start reproducing.

COMMON ILLNESSES

ROUNDWORMS

• It is safe to assume that most all kittens have roundworms.
• Deworming for roundworms can start as young as 2wks of age but we have found it safer to start at 3-4wks.
• Roundworms are readily seen in vomit or feces and are long, round, and spaghetti like.
• Oftentimes many roundworms are expelled from the body after initial deworming and while this may look alarming, it’s a good thing.
• Roundworms suck nutrients from the body and can be detrimental to the kittens health causing weight loss, diarrhea, and even prolapsed rectum.

HOOKWORMS & WHIPWORMS

• Neither can be viewed with the naked eye but can cause significant damage and weight loss.
• Seen much more commonly in dogs but can be found in cats. Oftentimes the reason why dogs appear underfed when they are not.
• Whipworms require a different type of dewormer than used for rounds or hooks.

COCCIDIA & GIARDIA

• Protozoans that can cause serious health repercussions and even death in young kittens.
• Highly contagious and difficult to get rid of. Can be spread by fomite transmission meaning simply touching one kitten and then another without washing hands is enough to spread the illness.
• Symptoms include diarrhea, vomiting, weight loss (even when eating well), lethargy, and appetite loss.
• Both can be difficult to test for as cysts shed on a cycle and may not be present in every feral sample.

UPPER RESPIRATORY INFECTION

• Very common in kittens and can range from mild to deadly.
• Symptoms include sneezing, nasal and ocular discharge, fever, lethargy, poor hair coat, etc.
• Gunky eyes in young kittens is extremely common and most often thought to be the result of the herpes virus which is carried by roughly 90% of cats although most are asymptomatic.
• Antibiotics are required for treatment.
• Some cats develop chronic URI which may never fully resolve despite treatment.

RINGWORM

• A zoonotic (meaning transferable to other species) fungal infection of the skin.
• Most commonly seen around the eyes, ears, chin, and paws.
• Incredibly contagious and hard to get rid of especially when the animals are group housed.
• Weekly Lyme sulfur dips are often required for up to 6 weeks and an oral medication may be added.
• Self limiting in healthy adult animals meaning it will eventually clear on its own.

FIV (FELINE IMMUNE DEFICIENCY VIRUS)

• Lowers the immune system and predisposes cats to inflammatory diseases such as stomatitis (inflammation of the mouth), uveitis (ocular inflammation), and GI upset.
• Spread cat to cat only (can’t be spread to dogs or people) primarily via deep bite wounds. Altered cats in a stable social structure can live together sharing food, litter, engaging in mutual grooming, and even the occasional mild scrap without spreading the disease.
• Occasionally can be passed from mother to kittens during the birthing process. The vast majority of kittens born to FIV+ mothers will test negative by 6 months of age however they may be falsely positive as young kittens as a result of still carrying mothers antibodies.
• When kept indoors and with regular veterinary care FIV+ cats have the same life expectancy as any other cat.

FeLV (FELINE LEUKEMIA)

• Ultimately deadly with an average lifespan of 3yrs after contracting the virus (sometimes much longer) and less if born with the disease.
• Can be spread to cats only (not dogs or humans) via sexual contact, mutual grooming, fighting, and sharing food and water bowls. Fomite transmission is possible but unlikely.
• The virus is unstable in the environment lasting only a couple of hours at most away from the host but up to 24hrs in water. It is very easy to disinfect.
• Common ailments associated with FeLV include anemia and lymphoma.
• Much like FIV, kittens may falsely test positive as they are still carrying moms antibodies. A series of testing is required to determine stage of infection. It is possible for a cat to beat the virus however there is no cure once perpetually infected.
• Cats can live many happy, healthy years before succumbing to the virus.

PANLEUKOPENIA

• The equivalent of parvovirus in dogs except that it carries a higher mortality rate upwards of 90% in unvaccinated cats left untreated.
• Highly contagious and readily spread via fomite transmission.
• If the kitten beats the virus it will remain contagious for up 6 weeks and the virus can live in the environment for up to 1 year!
• Causes vomiting, diarrhea, fever, lethargy, weight loss, loss of appetite, and death. Symptoms often come on quick and it not uncommon for kittens to die within 24-48hrs of showing symptoms.
• THIS IS WHY VACCINES ARE SO IMPORTANT!! Vaccines are extremely effective against the virus and quite literally save lives.

PREGNANT MOMS

GESTATION

• Momma kitties stay pregnant for about 9 weeks.
• Pregnant cats should be free fed kitten chow to ensure the best health for mom and babies.
• At about the halfway mark, you can begin to tell that the cat is pregnant. The kittens feel like golf balls at this stage.

THE LAST 48HRS

• A day or 2 before your momma kitty gives birth you will likely notice a shift in how high her stomach sits. Often their stomachs drop shortly before going into labor.
• Milk production often starts about 24hrs prior to birth.
• Mom may start looking for places to nest, become restless, become more friendly or more aloof, experience lack of appetite, and/or vocalize more.
• Clear or pink discharge is normal and you may notice momma licking herself.

WHAT YOU CAN DO TO PREPARE

• Mom is going to want a safe, quiet space away from other animals to have her babies. Closets make great spaces to set mom up.
• Create a birthing box by placing blankets inside of a laundry basket, clean and empty litter box, bottom half of carrier, etc. The box should have high enough walls to contain the kittens but low enough for mom to easily hop out. Understand that whichever linens you use may be soiled during the birthing process.
• Mom will take care of the rest!

THE BIG EVENT

• Generally mom requires no human interference and gets through the birthing process without issue.
• Mom may start panting as contractions begin and kittens are generally delivered in intervals of 15-60 minutes.
• The kittens will be delivered in a placental sack that mom will rip open will her teeth and immediately begin cleaning the kittens before chewing the umbilical cord and eating the afterbirth. Kittens will immediately begin nursing.

ALL THINGS KITTEN

WHAT GENDER IS MY KITTEN?

• Determining gender in young kittens can be tricky.
• The females genitals are closer to the anus while the males are farther away.

FECAL SCORING CHART

• Kittens commonly, maybe more often than not, experience diarrhea oftentimes due to parasites but other factors can contribute too.
• If your foster kittens stool is a 6 or 7 please let us know so that we can remedy the issue.
• Failure to treat the diarrhea can result in stunted growth or even death.

LITTER TRAINING

• Litter training is instinctual to cats and by 3 weeks of age they will generally begin using the litter box without your assistance.
• To help the kittens along please provide a very low litter pan (a pie pan works fine) and limit the space the kittens have to free roam during this stage.
• Some tiny kittens like to eat the litter so newspaper or pine pellets can be a good alternative to regular clay litter.

IS IT TIME TO GO HOME YET?

• It is most beneficial for kittens to stay with their siblings and mother until at least 8 weeks of age.
• Kittens that stay with their mother until this time are almost always hardier and healthier than kittens that are separated at a young age.
• The kittens mom and siblings also teach important manners that will come in handy later in life such as bite control. Additionally they mature faster as they observe the others using the litter box and eating solids.

WEANING BOTTLE FEEDERS

• When weaning bottle feeding kittens it is usually best to start with gruel which is a mixture of pate canned food and kitten formula.
• You may have to dip their noses into the mixture and/or put some on your finger and once they start nibbling slowly descend your finger into the bowl and then pull it away.
• Once your kittens have the hang of this (at about 4 weeks old) you can do away with formula and feed just canned food. Do not use gravy based food as this is harder for them to eat and will cause diarrhea.
• Oftentimes kittens will start eating hard food on their own once it’s introduced but sometimes you will need to start them off by mixing it into the pate.

FOSTERing FOR SHIRJ

WHAT WE EXPECT FROM YOU

• To provide kittens with a clean, nurturing environment and adequate food and water (food can be provided if needed).
• To make kittens available for veterinary appointments, adoption events, and meetings with potential adopters when given ample notice.
• To provide photos at least every 2 weeks so that we are able to advertise your kittens for adoption.
• To keep momma and kittens indoors.
• To communicate any issues clearly and in a timely manner.

WHAT TO EXPECT FROM US

• The first 3-4 weeks we will check in to see how their doing and maybe inquire if you have any guesses at gender but will not need much during this time period so long as everyone is healthy.
• At 4wks we will ask that the kittens come in for a weight check and their first round of dewormer.
• At 6wks we will ask that the kittens come in for a vet check and their first set of vaccinations. It is also around this time potential adopters may want to begin meeting their new family members!
• By 8-10wks there will likely be plenty of meet and greets and hopefully your kittens will all go home about this time!

ANY QUESTIONS?